The Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT) is a non-motorized trail, traversing 800 miles across Arizona from the Arizona-Utah border
in Kaibab Plateau in Utah southbound thru Arizona to Monument 102 on the U.S./Mexico border. The AZT connects three national parks, two national monuments, five national forests, and Oracle Arizona State Park, encapsulating Arizona’s varied beauty. According to the Arizona Trail Association, over a hundred hikers each season set out to complete an end-to-end hike.
Section One: The First 400 miles
In September of 2021, I completed the first 400 miles of the AZT (southbound). I enjoyed the AZT in the fall and became the first neuromodulator recipient to complete the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim with an overnight at Phantom Ranch (the bottom of the Grand Canyon). Due to medical reasons combined with an ill-fitting backpack that caused cuts and abrasions on top of my neurological implant batteries, I ended the trip shy of 400 miles.
Section Two: The Last 400 miles
Fun fact, upon completion of the AZT, finishers are awarded a copper-plated, handmade belt buckle. In the spring of 2022, I set out to complete the remaining miles of the AZT. No lie, though I completed the miles of the GWL on the AZT, I wanted to finish for the belt buckle. Finishers also become the proud holders of a completion sticker. I have completed various races, including four half-marathons, for medals.
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But in all seriousness, when I set out to complete something, I do it! Even though it makes me a long-ass section hiker versus a thru-hiker. I want to go on record here: completing a hiking/backpacking goal that you set out for yourself over time does not make you any less of a hiker. In the case of the AZT, I hiked the exact 800 miles that a thru-hiker would. In the running world, a 40-minute mile is still a mile. On April 1, 2022 (not an April’s Fool joke), I completed the AZT.
Speaking My Truth
I wasn’t as impressed during my second season on the AZT as the previous season. I found myself in snowy weather conditions right off the bat. From mile to mile, there were huge fluctuations between snow and heat. Though prepared, as a native Floridian, I found the cold extremes off-putting in the otherwise hot and dry climate. Within the first week, I bounced through various weather extremes that made no sense to me. As I made my way southbound, I was often alone for days. I enjoy solitude but quickly realized the importance of human connection, if only in brief greetings from strangers. For the first four days, I didn’t see another person. As someone living with a mental health condition, loneliness set in, and my endurance wavered.
Midway into the second week, I began crossing paths with other people. I was happy for all the brief connections and decided to make each encounter part of a Connection Collage, taking selfies with all the consenting people I encountered (the AZT selfie photos can be located on my Instagram account @footprintsforchange). Subscribe for future photo updates as I will continue this project on future treks.
Nearing the End
Loneliness aside, as I grew closer to the Mexican border, I began running into hikers whose complexion were similar hues of brown to mine. However, their end goal was anywhere in the United States. As I conversed with these travelers (Sí, yo hablo Español) I was engulfed in sadness and discontent. Here I was, hiking leisurely to receive a copper-plated belt buckle (smile). One encounter, in particular, left a disconsolate imprint on my spirit. I discovered a little girl amongst the backdrop of the Arizona landscape. Her stoic innocence masked the desperation and sallowness as I approached.
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My first thought was that her traveling companion(s) were detained. My second thought was, what action should I take? I fed and hydrated the young girl and decided to connect with any other adult reflecting the hues of the young girl. I needed to refill my water containers, especially considering I was now carrying water for two. As luck would have it, we arrived at a water trough where a group of folks and the little girl ran up to one of the men, yelling, “papa!” He explained that everyone dispersed when the border patrol came but assured me that her safety was most important, which is why he didn’t chase after her.
I learned later that expat children have the burden of proof. There’s no way to determine if a non-American-born child is not a citizen. I was set to finish the trail the following day and shared my lightweight food with the family. I realize the controversy around expats is a significant issue in the U.S., and aiding these individuals in entering the country is a crime. But allowing folks to starve to death is a greater travesty. As we wished one another safe travels, the young girl’s father reached into his pocket and handed me 20 pesos. He said “eres un ángel”. He explained that it was all his money and would give me more if he could. I was hesitant to take the pesos, but he insisted. I traded him a twenty-dollar bill in exchange.
Lasting Impact
That peso holds a scared spot in not only my heart – it is now a travel bug of sorts tucked away in a safe place as I continue North on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) *side note: I am writing this post as a reflection piece, and as of April 15, I have begun hiking the PCT as a part of the GWL.
The memories of that encounter stuck with me. Upon completing the AZT, a couple of border patrol agents congratulated me on my trek. I thought about my 800-mile journey and how challenging it was at times, yet, those who travel just as far, if not more, aren’t celebrated upon reaching the same border. My sobering completion and immense sadness I felt followed me to the PCT. I am now nearing the halfway point. Consider this a cliffhanger as my journey to connect continues.
The original post can be found here.
